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100 Years of The "Perfect" Body: Who Decides What We Should Look Like?

By

Ami Ciccone

, updated on

January 3, 2024

The Gibson Girl in the 1910s

The Gibson Girl, an iconic symbol of feminine beauty in the 1910s, epitomized the era's ideal woman. Created by illustrator Charles Dana Gibson, she was not just a fashion statement but a cultural phenomenon. With her hourglass figure, cinched waist, and voluptuous curves, she navigated the balance between modesty and allure.

More than just a style, the Gibson Girl represented an aspirational figure for women, embodying confidence, sophistication, and a subtle defiance of rigid societal norms. She was, in essence, the trendsetter of her time, shaping not only fashion but also the perception of female beauty and poise in the early 20th century.

Gibson Girl Deluxe: Camille Clifford

Camille Clifford, renowned as the quintessential Gibson Girl of the 1910s, epitomized Edwardian beauty and grace. She won a contest in 1905 to represent this ideal figure. Her victory in this competition, hosted by illustrator Charles Dana Gibson, catapulted her to widespread recognition.

Her career was predominantly in theater, where she showcased not only her beauty but also her talent. She was particularly noted for her roles in Edwardian musical comedies and was celebrated for her elegant stage presence. Her signature style, featuring an S-shaped silhouette, high collars, and upswept hair, became emblematic of the era's fashion. Even though her career was relatively short-lived, her legacy lives on!

Flappers Redefine 1920s Beauty

The Flappers of the Roaring 1920s dramatically redefined the ideal female body type. The style marked a stark departure from the curvaceous Gibson Girl of the previous decade. Embodying a spirit of rebellion and freedom, Flappers flaunted a more boyish figure, with a preference for a straight, lean silhouette. Their fashion was daring for the era—shorter hemlines, dropped waistlines and bobbed haircuts were their trademarks.

These bold women symbolized a new era of female liberation and social change—redefining womanhood in the vibrant 1920s while dancing to jazz in smoky speakeasies, challenging traditional gender norms, and embracing a lifestyle of independence and frivolity.

Flapper Deluxe: Margaret Gorman

Margaret Gorman, crowned as the first Miss America in 1921, played a pivotal role in shaping early 20th-century fashion ideals. Standing at the crossroads of the Gibson Girl and the Flapper era, Margaret's petite frame and youthful appearance embodied a transitional beauty standard.

She was only 16 when she won, and her innocent, girl-next-door look, featuring softly waved hair and a natural, slender silhouette, contrasted the more rebellious Flapper style emerging around her. Her reign as Miss America marked a significant moment in the evolution of beauty ideals, bridging the gap between the conservative 1910s and the bold, liberated 1920s.

Curves Seduce the 1930s

The 1930s saw the rise of the "Soft Siren," a beauty ideal that brought a more feminine and curvy silhouette back into vogue, subtly shifting away from the boyish Flapper of the 1920s. This era, deeply influenced by the glamor of Hollywood, idolized stars like Jean Harlow and Greta Garbo, whose on-screen presence epitomized this refined elegance.

The Soft Siren look favored longer, flowing lines in fashion, emphasizing accentuating natural curves while maintaining a sense of sophistication and grace. This period's style emphasized a natural waistline, form-fitting gowns, and softer, more romantic hairstyles, representing a blend of classic femininity with a hint of emerging modern women.

Soft Siren Deluxe: Dolores Del Rio

Renowned for her stunning beauty and impeccable fashion sense, Dolores Del Rio, a Mexican actress, significantly impacted 1920s and 1930s Hollywood fashion. Her style was a blend of Hollywood glamor and her Mexican heritage, bringing an untouched elegance to the silver screen.

Known for her slender, graceful figure, Dolores often wore gowns highlighting her natural curves, influencing the era's beauty standards. She also popularized sophisticated hairstyles and makeup looks, which were both glamorous and natural. Her rise broke barriers as one of the first major Latin American stars in Hollywood, redefining beauty ideals with her cross-cultural appeal and timeless elegance.

1940s Strength in Style

The 1940s introduced the "Star-Spangled Girl," a style defined by a patriotic and practical approach to fashion, distinct from the lavish elegance of the 1930s. This era's ideal body type was influenced by World War II, emphasizing a more practical and powerful form, reflecting women's active roles in the war effort.

The fashion was functional yet feminine, with tailored suits, knee-length skirts, and modest blouses becoming staples. Hairstyles were simpler, often pinned up for practicality. The focus shifted from accentuating curves to showcasing a strong, resilient female form representing a cultural shift and honoring women's contributions during a time of global upheaval.

Star-Spangled Girl Deluxe: Betty Grable

Iconic for her "million-dollar legs," Betty Grable reshaped fashion in the 1940s with her signature blend of allure and approachability. She popularized the pin-up look, which combined a mix of glamor and girl-next-door appeal. Her high-waisted swimsuits, elegant gowns, and playful yet sophisticated style made her a fashion icon.

Betty's image, notably her famous swimsuit poster, boosted morale among service members and made her legs famously insured by Lloyd's of London. Her hairstyles became a trend among women seeking to emulate her screen-siren look. Betty's legacy in fashion illustrates how a star's image can capture the spirit of an age and influence beauty standards for generations!

Hourglass Figure in the 1950s

The 1950s heralded the return of the hourglass figure, a stark contrast to the more conservative and practical styles of the 1940s. This era, influenced by post-war prosperity and the rise of television and cinema, celebrated a woman's curves with renewed enthusiasm. Fashion emphasized a cinched waist, full hips, and a shapely bust, epitomized by stars like Sophia Loren.

This was the age of the pencil skirt, the fitted sweater, and the billowing skirt, all designed to accentuate a woman's natural shape. Beauty ideals in the 1950s were about a well-defined silhouette, a dramatic shift from the practical and modest styles necessitated by the wartime era.

Hourglass Figure Deluxe: Marilyn Monroe

Synonymous with the golden age of Hollywood, Marilyn Monroe became a timeless fashion icon forever associated with the glamor of the 1950s. Her impact on fashion and beauty standards was profound, as she popularized the hourglass figure.

Marilyn's style blended seductive elegance and accessible charm, from her figure-hugging dresses to her iconic white halter dress in "The Seven Year Itch." She also revolutionized makeup trends with her signature red lips, winged eyeliner, and platinum blonde hair. She was not just a fashion icon; her confident demeanor and ability to embrace her curves inspired women to appreciate their natural curvaceous bodies.

1960s Slender Revolution

The 1960s ushered in the era of "The Twig," a dramatic shift from the voluptuous hourglass figure of the 1950s. This new beauty ideal celebrated a slender, almost waif-like physique, symbolizing youth and modernity. With her elfin features and rail-thin frame, fashion icons like Twiggy became the epitome of this trend. This era favored short, shift dresses that hung loosely on the body, emphasizing a straight, lean silhouette over curves.

Hairstyles, too, became shorter and less fussy, complementing the streamlined, simplistic fashion. The 1960s marked a significant point in the evolution of beauty standards, where slim figures were in vogue for the first time, setting a trend that would influence fashion for decades.

The Twig Deluxe: Twiggy

Revolutionizing 1960s fashion with her distinct look, Lesley Lawson, also known as Twiggy, became the face of the era's youthquake movement. Her waifish figure, large eyes accentuated by dramatic makeup, and short, androgynous haircut challenged traditional beauty norms. She popularized the 'mod' look: mini skirts, A-line dresses, and bold, graphic prints, epitomizing the spirit of Swinging London.

Her influence extended beyond the catwalks; she brought a new, carefree attitude to fashion, where youth and individuality were celebrated. She not only changed how women dressed but also how they perceived beauty, ushering in an era where being slim instead of curvy was equated with style and sophistication.

Disco Shaped the 1970s Body

The 1970s welcomed the "Disco Diva" style, a vibrant departure from the minimalist Twig aesthetic of the 1960s. This era, fueled by the pulsating rhythms of disco music and the glitter of the dance floor, celebrated a more athletic, toned physique. Women's fashion was characterized by high-waisted bell bottoms, shimmering, body-hugging dresses, and dramatic, flowy tops.

This style accentuated movement and the body's natural shape, contrasting with the previous decade's preference for straight, lean silhouettes. Hairstyles were voluminous and full of life, complementing the exuberant, lively fashion. The 1970s thus marked a shift towards a more dynamic and expressive form of femininity, reflecting the decade's ethos of freedom and self-expression.

Disco Diva Deluxe: Charlie's Angels

The television series "Charlie's Angels," which aired in the late 1970s and early 1980s, significantly impacted fashion and the perception of the female body. It featured three stylish, independent women as private detectives, a departure from traditional female roles on TV. With their athletic, toned figures, the Angels popularized a more empowered and versatile style.

Their wardrobe, often comprising high-waisted jeans, wide-legged pants, and fitted blouses, emphasized a balance between femininity and functionality. The show also highlighted sportier, more practical hairstyles, reflecting the Angels' active, adventurous personas. They inspired a generation with the message that women could take on adventurous, traditionally male roles and do so with undeniable style and grace.

The 1980s Supermodel Silhouette

The 1980s heralded the era of the "Supermodel," a dramatic shift from the approachable beauty icons of the past. This decade celebrated towering figures of glamor, with models like Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, and Linda Evangelista dominating fashion. Their impact was monumental; they were not just mannequins for clothes but celebrities in their own right, commanding attention on and off the runway.

The attention-catching look was characterized by a tall, statuesque physique, often athletic and toned, reflecting the decade's fitness craze. Fashion in the 1980s was bold and exaggerated, with shoulder pads, vibrant colors, and power suits complementing the Supermodel's commanding presence.

Supermodel Deluxe: Rachel Hunter

With her effortless blend of approachable beauty and sophistication, Rachel Hunter emerged as a defining face of the 1990s, significantly shaping the era's fashion. As a supermodel, her tall, statuesque figure and radiant, girl-next-door charm made her a favorite on both runways and magazine covers.

Rachel's impact on fashion was characterized by a shift towards a more relatable yet aspirational form of beauty. She popularized casual yet chic styles, often seen in simple, elegant outfits highlighting her natural appeal. Her influence extended to promoting a healthier body image, as she represented a more attainable and wholesome look than the ultra-thin models of the time.

Supermodel Deluxe: Elle Macpherson

Rising to fame in the 1980s and 1990s, a supermodel known as "The Body" made an indelible mark on fashion with her striking figure and sun-kissed Australian charm. Her athletic build and tall stature differed from the waifish silhouettes that had dominated the industry.

This supermodel, Elle Macpherson, became synonymous with healthy, sporty glamor, influencing fashion to embrace a more robust and toned physique. Her impact was seen in the popularity of swimwear and lingerie styles that celebrated a strong, healthy body type. Elle's presence on numerous magazine covers and in fashion campaigns also helped to popularize a beachy, natural aesthetic, blending laid-back Australian style with high fashion.

Waif Chic in the 1990s

The 1990s witnessed the resurgence of "The Waif" look, a stark contrast to the athletic and robust supermodel figures of the 1980s. This trend, characterized by an extremely slender, almost adolescent physique, represented a minimalist and somewhat androgynous approach to beauty.

Fashion echoed this aesthetic with simple, unstructured clothing lines—think slip dresses, grunge-inspired flannel, and basic tees. The poster child for this trend was often seen in high-fashion circles with a gamine figure and an effortlessly chic style. This shift to a more understated form of beauty was both controversial and influential, sparking debates about body image and health in the fashion industry.

Waif Chic Deluxe: Kate Moss

Elevating the 'waif' look to iconic status in the 1990s, a British supermodel, Kate Moss, became a defining symbol of the era's fashion. Known for her petite frame and ethereal beauty, she broke the mold of traditional supermodel standards, which had favored more statuesque figures.

Kate ushered in a new era of high fashion, where her understated, almost grunge-inspired aesthetic became highly influential. She popularized trends like the slip dress, skinny jeans, and the "heroin chic" look, a controversial style marked by a pale, waifish appearance. Her influence was so profound that it sparked a broader shift in the industry, with designers and photographers embracing a more raw, unpolished aesthetic.

Waif Chic Deluxe: Winona Ryder

In the 1990s, Winona Ryder became an unexpected fashion icon, her unique style reflecting the decade's grunge and alternative aesthetic. Known for her roles in cult classics, she captivated audiences with her waifish figure and distinctive look, starkly contrasting the glamorous Hollywood norm.

Winona popularized a blend of vintage and punk elements, often seen in leather jackets, plaid skirts, and combat boots. Her pixie haircut and minimalistic makeup became style signatures, inspiring a trend towards more understated, androgynous looks. Her impact on fashion was symbolic of the 1990s' rebellion against the excesses of previous decades, making a statement that style could be both unconventional and effortlessly chic.

2000s Buff Beauty Boom

The dawn of the 2000s marked a significant shift in beauty ideals with the emergence of the buff beauty trend, diverging from the waifish look of the 1990s. This new ideal celebrated a more athletic, toned physique, signaling a growing focus on fitness and strength in women's fashion.

Women were now aspiring to a body that was not just slim but also muscular and defined, reflecting an increasing emphasis on health and empowerment. Fashion adapted to this change, with form-fitting clothing and sportswear gaining popularity. It reflected a society beginning to value physical strength and fitness as key components of feminine beauty.

Buff Beauty Deluxe: Gisele Bündchen

During the turn of the millennium, Gisele Bündchen, a Brazilian supermodel, redefined beauty standards in the fashion world. Her tall, lean, yet athletic build marked a departure from the waif-like figures that had a resurgence in the 1990s. She brought a unique combination of exotic beauty and accessible charm to the runway.

Gisele popularized the 'healthy, toned, and tanned' look, which was a refreshing change in an industry often criticized for promoting unrealistic body standards. Beyond her modeling career, she became a symbol of environmental activism and holistic living, further influencing the fashion industry to embrace sustainability and ethical practices.

Curves Rule the 2010s

Moving away from the slender, athletic looks of the previous decade, the 2010s celebrated curves, particularly a fuller posterior and hips, marking a new appreciation for diverse body types in fashion and popular culture. Influenced by celebrities and social media influencers, style embraced this change with high-waisted jeans, bodycon dresses, and athleisure wear designed to accentuate a shapely lower body.

This era celebrated body diversity and empowerment, encouraging women to embrace their natural shapes. This trend also sparked a fitness movement focused on strength and curves, reflecting a broader cultural shift towards a more inclusive and varied representation of female beauty.

Curvy Deluxe: Rihanna

As a global music icon and entrepreneur known for her bold and eclectic style, Rihanna emerged in the 2000s as a significant influencer in the fashion world. Her fearless approach to fashion broke the mold, often mixing high couture with streetwear, creating a unique blend of edginess and elegance.

She revolutionized the beauty and lingerie industries with her inclusive brands. Her impact on fashion has been profound, promoting empowerment and self-expression. Her ventures into fashion and beauty have been commercially successful and set new standards for inclusivity and diversity in the industry, making her an icon for a generation that values authenticity and representation.

Curvy Deluxe: Kim Kardashian

Kim Kardashian, a reality TV star and entrepreneur, catapulted to fame in the late 2000s, becoming a defining figure in shaping beauty and fashion trends. Her influence extended to the beauty and fitness industries, where her signature style and body shape inspired products and workouts designed to achieve a similar look.

Her impact on fashion is characterized by her penchant for figure-hugging dresses, high-waisted skirts, and crop tops that accentuate curves. She also influenced the rise of contouring in makeup, a technique that became a global phenomenon. Her foray into the fashion and beauty industries includes successful ventures that reflect her style and body positivity.

Curvy Deluxe: Jennifer Lopez

In the landscape of fashion and beauty, Jennifer Lopez, a celebrated singer and actress who emerged in the late 1990s, brought a seismic shift in beauty ideals. Her impactful presence celebrated a strong, curvy figure, veering away from the previous decade's preference for slender silhouettes.

Known for her bold and sensual fashion choices, she ushered in trends like plunging necklines and figure-embracing dresses, emphasizing her shapely physique. Her style evolution, marked by glamor and confidence, was crucial in promoting body diversity. Her influence was not just for show; she became a beacon of body confidence, inspiring women to embrace their natural bodies.

Curvy Deluxe: Nicki Minaj

A dynamic force in the music industry since the late 2000s, Nicki Minaj brought a new dimension to fashion with her bold and unapologetic style. Known for her eclectic and often daring musical style, she combines rap, R&B, and pop elements, earning her widespread acclaim and numerous awards.

Nicki's impact on fashion is as distinctive as her music. She is renowned for her theatrical and vibrant costumes, often featuring bright colors, bold prints, and avant-garde designs. Her fashion choices often include exaggerated silhouettes, dramatic makeup, and eye-catching accessories, making her a regular highlight in the industry. Beyond her aesthetic influence, she is a vocal advocate for body positivity and self-acceptance.

The End of the Body Ideal

In the ever-evolving landscape of beauty and fashion, one striking trend of recent years is the absence of a singular, dominant ideal female body type. Unlike the past century, where specific body shapes held sway, today's fashion industry embraces a diverse array of body types and beauty standards.

This shift represents a broader cultural move towards inclusivity and acceptance of individuality. With its diverse representation and body-positive movements, social media has played a pivotal role in reshaping perceptions of beauty. Women of all shapes, sizes, and backgrounds are celebrated, challenging the traditional notion that there's a one-size-fits-all standard of beauty.

Fashion's New Face

Many fashion brands have recognized the importance of this cultural shift and are actively working towards promoting body positivity. Brands like Dove have been pioneers in featuring diverse body types in their advertising campaigns, celebrating real women and their unique beauty.

The lingerie brand Aerie is praised for its commitment to showcasing untouched photos of models, stretch marks, and more. Rihanna's Savage X Fenty line has received accolades for its inclusive range of sizes and diverse runway shows that highlight models of various backgrounds and body types. These brands, among others, are not only changing the narrative around beauty but also setting a precedent for a more inclusive and empowering fashion industry.

Real Bodies, Real Stories

Brands have recognized that consumers are seeking authenticity and relatability in their advertising. As a result, marketing campaigns increasingly feature real women of all sizes, ethnicities, and backgrounds, celebrating their individuality and uniqueness. Social media platforms have played a significant role in this shift, enabling consumers to demand representation and authenticity.

Influencers and celebrities who promote body positivity have also partnered with brands to amplify the message of self-love and acceptance. This shift in marketing strategies not only reflects changing beauty ideals but also acknowledges the importance of fostering a positive self-image among consumers. Through this movement, more and more women see themselves represented in advertising—a win, honestly!

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